Chicago's Home Of Chicken and Waffles

Address: 3947 S. King Drive, Chicago, IL, 60653
Phone: 773-536-3300
Hours: 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 9 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

When it comes to a great meal, anticipation is often the best part. Chicago’s Home of Chicken and Waffles, promises to up the ante on that classic soul food pairing of chicken and waffles. The restaurant on the corner of Oakwood Street and Martin Luther King Drive in Bronzeville went up in 2005. Stomachs growled. You could almost smell the warm waffle batter wafting through the neighborhood.

Owner Darnell Johnson, a Brooklyn native and wife, Tonya, a Chicago native suggested reviving Chicago’s up-and-coming Bronzeville neighborhood with a restaurant that has filtered its way into the national consciouness thanks to position as a go-to late-night spots for Chicago celebs(including Kanye West).

The fried chicken is the work of Carol Johnson, Johnson’s daughter-in-law, a native of Trinidad. Still, Johnson says the flavor is purely Southern. "It’s grandma’s old black-kettle Southern-fried chicken," he says. "You’re reminded of your grandmother when you eat our food.

"You can see the family’s influence on the lengthy menu. Most dishes bear the name of a family member. The Betty Lou ($13.90), a half chicken smothered in gravy with two waffles, is named for Johnson’s mom. The Saint ($9.40), a quarter chicken sans gravy with two waffles, is named for his son Selwyn Saint Johnson.

We tried Carol’s Treat ($9.60), a quarter bird smothered in thick savory gravy topped with sauteed onions. The flavorful chicken was crunchy, yet incredibly moist. This was one big bird, and I worried I wouldn’t finish the whole plate. Then I worried when I did. The side of buttermilk waffles was thin, hot, chewy and irresistible as well. Yes, Chicago's Home of Chicken and Waffles was worth the wait.

There are also straight-up soul food meals ($9.95-10.95): Chicken or catfish served with choices that include red beans and rice, mac and cheese, yams and collard greens. From what we tried, these dishes hold their own against any soul food in town.

We get the sense Johnson is trying hard to create a family-friendly vibe here. While it’s still a breakfast anytime kind of place, there will be no post-club hours and no booze—not even BYOB. But we’re glad to see more interesting selections than soda, such as the Sunrise (Lemonade and OJ) and the Sunset (Lemonade and Iced Tea); both are $2.80.

The dining room is handsome, with lots of earthy tones and exposed brick walls. A big central dining room is bracketed by rows of wide booths. We liked the artwork’s jazz motif, a classy touch that recalls Bronzeville’s historic musical tradition. Right now, Chicago’s Home of Chicken and Waffles is entirely a sit-down restaurant, but once the dining room gets into a groove, Johnson says, look for a takeout operation to begin.

Ultimately, the pent-up interest in this restaurant reflects a real hunger for non-corporate fast food options in the neighborhood. When we went, there was a rather formidable line stretching from the front door down the long ramp leading into the dining room. When the hostess told us it would only be 15 minutes for a table, my friends and I shot each other skeptical "yeah, right" looks. Turns out, she was right. Despite the crowds, tables turn over swiftly. Besides, after waiting two-and-a-half years, 15 minutes more didn’t seem so bad.

Chris Lamorte